Retinol is a popular skin care ingredient with complexion-enhancing and "antiaging" (reducing the signs of aging) benefits. It is a form of vitamin Athat promotes skin cell turnover, helping reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and mild acne.
Retinol offers a gentler, more affordable version of prescription-strength retinoids and is available over the counter in creams, moisturizers, cleansers, and cosmetics. Though highly effective, some people may experience side effects from using retinol, such as skin inflammation, itching and burning sensations, and dry, flaky skin.
1. Boosts the Production of Elastin and Collagen
Retinol stimulates the production of elastin and collagen,two proteins that give the skin its structure, firmness, and elasticity, as follows:
- Collagen is a structural protein that makes the skin firm and plump, helping maintain a smooth and youthful appearance.
- Elastin gives skin elasticity, allowing it to stretch and bounce back to its original shape.
The body's natural production of these proteins decreases with age, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin.
Research shows that retinol effectively boosts collagen and elastin production. It penetrates the skin and stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, keeping the skin firm and smooth.
It also improves skin elasticity by breaking down damaged elastin fibers and promoting the growth of new ones. By stimulating skin regeneration and repair, retinol enhances the skin's elasticity and firmness and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
2. Reduces Scarring and Inflammation
Retinol reduces scarring and inflammation, making it beneficial for people with acne scars or hyperpigmentation (patches or areas of skin that's darker than the surrounding skin). It promotes cell turnover, helping fade the appearance of scars by encouraging the growth of new, healthy skin cells.
Studies show that retinol can decrease the activity of inflammatory pathways in the skin, reducing swelling associated with acne and acne scars. Retinol’s ability to stimulate collagen production plays a role in smoothing out scar tissue, giving the skin a smoother, more even texture over time.
3. Improves Tone and Texture
Retinol has antioxidant properties that improve skin tone and texture by accelerating cell turnover and promoting the shedding of dead skin cells. Cell regeneration slows down as we age, and skin can become dry, rough, and dull and develop wrinkles.
Studies show that regular retinol improves skin roughness and dullness over time by speeding up cell turnover and promoting the creation of new, healthy skin cells. This makes retinol a powerful ingredient in addressing concerns like age spots for a smoother, more radiant-looking complexion.
4. Reduces the Appearance of Dark Spots
Retinol is highly effective at reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, including dark spots, age spots, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne. By accelerating skin cell turnover, retinol helps fade dark spots by promoting skin cell turnover, helping replace older, pigmented cells with new, evenly pigmented cells.
Research shows consistent retinol use also inhibits melanin production, the pigment responsible for dark spots. Over time, this helps dark spots fade and disappear, leading to a more even complexion.
Skin Conditions It Treats
Retinol is a versatile skin care ingredient that addresses many skin concerns, including:
- Acne and acne scars
- Enlarged pores
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Hyperpigmentation, including dark spots
- Keratosis pilaris (rough patches or bumps)
- Melasma
- Rough or uneven skin texture
- Sun damage (photoaging)
How Long Does It Take to See Results?
The time frame for seeing visible results from retinol can vary, but most people begin to notice improvements within four to 12 weeks of consistent use. During the first few weeks, retinol works beneath the skin's surface to promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen and elastin production, which may not immediately reflect on the skin's appearance.
For fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots, noticeable changes may take 12 weeks or more as collagen rebuilds and pigmented areas gradually fade. Patience and consistency are key with retinol, as its benefits accumulate over time. The longer you use retinol, the more noticeable results become. Studies show that long-term retinol use leads to improvements in skin texture and tone and a reduction in wrinkles and fine lines.
Potential Side Effects and How to Lessen Them
While retinol is highly effective, it can cause some side effects, especially when you first begin using retinol. They may include:
- Burning or itching sensations
- Drying
- Increased skin sensitivity, especially to the sun
- Peeling
- Redness
These effects occur because retinol speeds up skin cell turnover, which can irritate the skin as it adjusts to retinol. To minimize these side effects, experts recommend you:
- Start with a low concentration of retinol (e.g., 0.25%) to allow your skin to adjust.
- Use retinol just once or twice a week and gradually increase application frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
- Apply a moisturizer immediately after using retinol to soothe irritation and keep the skin hydrated.
- Apply sunscreen to your skin daily.
Who Should Consider Avoiding Retinol?
While retinol offers numerous skin care benefits, it isn’t suitable for everyone. People who should avoid using retinol and other retinoids include:
- Pregnant people: High levels of vitamin A derivatives like retinol and other retinoids can cause congenital disabilities. Although over-the-counter retinol products are less potent than prescription retinoids, it is best to avoid retinol-containing skin care products.
- Breastfeeding people: No research has been done on the safety of topical retinoids while breastfeeding. Speak to a healthcare provider before using retinol products if you are breastfeeding.
- People with sensitive skin or underlying skin conditions: If you have sensitive skin or a dermatological condition like eczema (atopic dermatitis, which causes inflammation and itching), retinol may be too harsh and irritating.
Other Precautions
When you first start using it, retinol can irritate the skin and cause itchiness, dryness, and flaky, peeling skin. Retinol products come in varying concentrations—from 0.01% to 0.1%. Start with a lower concentration and apply it once or twice a week to help your skin adjust.
Retinol also increases skin sensitivity to the sun (photosensitivity). This is why it's essential to apply sunscreen to prevent sun-related skin damage, such as from sunburns. Avoid using retinol during the day and stick to nighttime application to reduce the risk of sun-related side effects. If you apply during the day, follow up with sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 to protect your skin from sun damage.
Combining retinol with certain active ingredients can increase skin irritation and dryness and inactivate the retinol or other ingredients:
- Alpha hydroxy (AHA) acids
- Azelaic acid
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Vitamin C
When to Contact a Healthcare Provider
The side effects of retinol vary from person to person. While some mild irritation is common, persistent or severe symptoms may mean the concentration of retinol is too intense for your skin or the retinol is causing an allergy-like reaction.
See a healthcare provider if you are using an over-the-counter retinol and develop any of the following symptoms:
- Dry, peeling skin that doesn’t improve
- Persistent skin rash, inflammation, swelling, blistering, itchiness, or stinging sensations
- Skin discoloration
Summary
Retinol is a popular skin care ingredient with many uses, from treating acne and reducing hyperpigmentation to promoting an even skin tone and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Though highly effective, noticing visible results may take 12 weeks or longer. When you first start using retinol, you may experience side effects like irritation and dryness.
If you have concerns about whether retinol is the right choice for you or how to use it effectively, it's always a good idea to discuss your skin care options with a healthcare provider, such as a dermatologist.
